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Friday, September 12, 2008

Cliffhanger: Ireland’s most intriguing hotel

A narrow country road meandering along rugged Helvick Head leads to the Cliff House Hotel, a romantic hideaway nestling in an unspoilt pocket of Waterford. It's one of the most dramatically located hotels in the country, clinging on to sheer rock on a hill above the seaside village of Ardmore.

At first sight, it seems almost part of the cliff with its moss-covered roofs, slate terraces and discreet balconies which slope down to the water's edge.



The hotel stands on the site of a derelict lodging house of the same name, which was demolished to make way for this architectural gem spanning seven floors.

Room to book

The beauty of the Cliff House is its closeness to the sea. There are 39 rooms but make sure to book one with a veranda, perfect for late-night star gazing and mid-afternoon naps. With nothing between you and miles of blue ocean, you could easily believe you're on a cruise ship. Keep your eye fixed on the bay and you might spot the resident family of dolphins playing in the waves.
Our stylish room was wrapped in vibrant shades of pink, with a king-sized bed, plump sofa and two giant flat screen TVs, which stayed switched off for the duration of our visit, unable to compete with the stunning views from the balcony. If you want to splash out, the plush Cliff Veranda suites are split-level in style, with a living area downstairs plus bedroom and roof terrace upstairs. Mosaic- tiled, glass-walled bathrooms edge onto the balcony, allowing guests to shower overlooking the sea.

The food

Roasted Helvick prawns, Ardmore Bay lobster and Dingle Bay crab - seafood is king at the Cliff House. A neighbouring diner was so impressed with her Helvick turbot fillet, served with linguine, cauliflower pureé and brown butter sauce, she commissioned a waitress to take a menu to the kitchen and have it autographed by the head chef. The man himself is Dutchman Martijn Kajuiter, who honed his skills working with Michel Roux and Marco Pierre White.

A three-course dinner costs €62.50, including coffee and petit fours. Breakfast, served from 7am-11am, is a feast of lemon honey porridge, fresh fruit served with Glenlinen yoghurt and fresh waffles with local strawberries. On a fine day, it's lovely to dine al-fresco before setting off on a stroll through the countryside.

The pamper factor

A dip in the infinity pool offers brilliant views of Ardmore Bay but choose your timing carefully. On Saturdays, the hotel's Well Spa gets busy but we slipped down before Sunday lunch and had the place to ourselves. Lie back in the outdoor Jacuzzi and breathe in the gorgeous scenery before taking the steps down to the hotel's very own natural rock pool. Finish off with an invigorating seaweed scrub peppered with sweet lavender or pure peppermint, which will brush away any remaining cobwebs.
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