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Monday, September 15, 2008

Ten Best Irish Pub Walks

1 Lough Derg Way, Co. Clare

O’Brien’s Bridge, an ancient fording place on the Shannon, is a gem of a stopoff along the Lough Derg Way — and the gem within a gem is the Old Mill Bar & Restaurant. “The Italian is long gone out of me,” says Joe Sciascia, whose family owns the bar. “Only the temperament has stayed!” Head Chef James McNamara’s food has won numerous awards. Don’t miss their legendary steak.

Details: The Old Mill, O’Brien’s Bridge, Co. Clare. Tel: 061 372 020 .

2 Diamond Hill Loop, Co. Galway

The three-hour Diamond Hill loop summits a narrow ridge to views over the Atlantic Ocean, Kylemore Abbey and the Twelve Bens. At the foot of Diamond Mountain lies the Bard’s Den, one of the oldest hostelries in Connemara. Turf fires and trad sessions are only the half of it. The bar serves local crab, scallops and Connemara lamb, and boasts the only disco in Letterfrack.

Details: The Bard’s Den, Letterfrack, Co. Galway. Tel: 095 41042 .

3 Howth Coastal Path, Co. Dublin

Howth’s 7.5km cliff-top circuit offers magical views across the sprawling expanse of Dublin city. Vistas continue at the Summit Inn, where customers can relax within sight of Ireland’s Eye and the Mountains of Mourne. Good pub grub and a pool table seal the deal.

Details: Summit Inn, Thormanby Road, Howth, Co. Dublin. Tel: 01-832 4615 .

4 Sheep's Head Way, Co. Cork

This West Cork walk has been voted the best in Ireland by Country Walking magazine. The 55-mile route has numerous loops, but the official trailhead lies in Bantry. Here, Maurice and Colette O’Donovan’s Snug bar is a cosy stopover that includes homemade soups on the menu — the perfect tonic for weary calves.

Details: The Snug, the Quay, Bantry, Co. Cork. Tel: 027 50057 .

5 Causeway Coastal Path, Co. Antrim

Northern Ireland’s full Causeway Coastal Route takes three days, but the portion from Portstewart to Dunluce can be covered in an afternoon. From Dunluce Castle, the trail leads to the sleepy seaside village of Portballintrae and a warm welcome in Sweeney’s pub. A former coaching stable for the Leslie Estate, the restored bar’s seafood platter has been recommended.

Details: Sweeney’s Bar, Seapoint Avenue, Portballintrae, Co. Antrim. Tel: 0044 282 073 2405 .

6 Cavan Way, Co. Leitrim
A 25km route starting in Blacklion or Dowra, the Cavan Way ranges from Cuilcagh Mountains to megalithic tombs. If you’re finishing up in Dowra, head for Kay Rynn’s pub in Ballinaglera. “It’s a pub as you can imagine way back when,” says Alex Delimata of http://www.passport-breifne.com/. The hostelry also serves as a shop, post office, and the local undertakers.

Details: Rynn’s, Ballinaglera, Co. Leitrim.

7 Wicklow Way, Co. Wicklow

The Knockree to Roundwood section of the Wicklow Way is an 18km hike taking in Glencree valley, Powerscourt Waterfall and Djouce Mountain, before descending through Ballinastoe Woods towards Roundwood. Here, Daniel Day-Lewis’s local and Georgina Campbell’s erstwhile pub of the year boasts both a cosy snug and a zingy Hungarian goulash.

Details: Roundwood Inn, Roundwood, Co. Wicklow. Tel: 01-281 8107 .

8 Carron Loop, Co. Clare

Carron village lies in the heart of the Burren. Its walking loop, featuring Termon, Clab Valley and St Fachtnan’s Holy Well, begins and ends at Cassidy’s Pub, a family establishment since 1830. The building was once a RIC barracks, though today bursts with music and cheer.

Details: Cassidy’s, Carron, Co. Clare. Tel: 065 708 9109 ; cassidyspub.com.

9 Kerry Way, Co. Kerry

Ireland’s longest signposted walking trail passes its fair share of pubs, but the Smugglers’ Inn in Waterville is one of the best. A restored farmhouse overlooking a sandy beach, Ballinskelligs Bay and the McGillycuddy Reeks, seafood and shellfish are the chef’s specialities. “If you’re coming off the trail, it’s a nice place to rest,” says the proprietor.

Details: Smugglers’ Inn, Cliff Road, Waterville, Co. Kerry. Tel: 066 947 4330 .

10 Slieve Foy Loop, Co. Louth

This is a tough 10km walk rising above Carlingford, but the reward is sublime views over the Lough and the Mountains of Mourne. The walk begins at the tourist office, and can be ended at PJ O’Hare’s Anchor Bar. Time your visit right, and you could be in town for the Oyster, Jazz and Blues Festival (September 6-8).

Details: O’Hare’s, Tholsel Street, Carlingford, Co. Louth. Tel: 042 937 3106 .